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Rail
Europe for the Student
Traveler
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by: David
Lazzarino
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Hitting
the Rails —
It has been a time-honoured
tradition for the North
American university grad to
leave his sheltered nest and
seek the unknown in a distant
land.
Unfortunately, tradition also
lends way to cliché.
The early twenties, book smart
grad is filled with an
ambition to add some life
experience to his new set of
professional letters. He sits
in a dockside café eating
hometown food with French
provincial names as he writes
into a leather-bound booklet
some deep insights that he
assumes are original. He
dreams of having a torrid love
affair with some local peasant
girl but settles instead for
swapping email addresses with
some Canadians doing the exact
same thing. As entertaining as
this prospect seems, it was
not my wish. I wanted to carve
out my own adventure, and in
Europe there is no better way
than by train.
The European rail system has
been for years second-to-none
for accessibility, comfort,
and, with Rail Europe,
affordability. There are a
variety of Rail Europe passes
for different prices that can
get you anywhere you wish in
little time and from city
center to city center. North
Americans must purchase the
Rail Europe tickets before
departing Europe (you can't
get them in Europe) and well
in advance of their trip, and
in certain countries the
passes are valid on ferries
and riverboats. The passes are
easy to use and, if taken
advantage of fully, are
cheaper than most other forms
of transportation. Best of all
is that trains can get you to
remote areas that you would
otherwise miss. For the
budget-minded the night
excursions or hotel trains
save you hotel rooms so that
you awake the next day in a
new country!
Copenhagen —
I landed in Copenhagen and got
immediately roped into the
standard tourist sites —
Tivoli Gardens , the Royal
Palace, etc.
I saw an incredible exhibit of
Danish design at the National
Art (Kunst) Gallery, and I
took a bike ride through an
area called Christiania, an
area started by a group of
Danes in the 1960s looking for
free love, free drugs, and
free rent, and it hasn’t
changed much since. I was here
when I was thirteen years old,
staying with a cousin. Since,
the government has made an
attempt to clean up
Christiania by taking out most
of the drugs but the general
atmosphere remains. Old
military buildings painted in
bright colors are home to all
sorts of the local free
thinkers from vagrants to
artists to very accomplished
architects. The tour ended at
the National Library, also
called the “Diamond”
because of it’s seemingly
transparently beautiful
aesthetics. It is a remarkable
example of the old world class
of an European city (half of
the building is the original
building of the National
Library) and the clean lines
and simple concepts of modern
Danish design that act to
seemingly tell a story with
nothing but light.
Munich —
As wonderful of a city as
Copenhagen is, the tourist
route begins to lose its
luster and the rails are
calling me East. I've been to
Germany before so I wasn’t
interested in staying for too
long, but the food and beer
would be a shame to miss —
yet another perk of train
travel. Local trains can
always be caught if you simply
feel like ending up in a small
town outside Munich, ordering
a heaping lunch and a few
giant steins of local brew and
making your way out the same
day. Needless to say, between
Frankfurt and the Hungarian
border I was full, comfortably
brewed-up, and happy as the
beautiful sites of central
Europe flew by.
As can be expected, this type
of life can take it’s toll
on a person’s ability to
remain conscious. By chance,
when my body and mind were
screaming for sleep, I
happened upon a rather quiet
train car. In fact, at one
point a person was asked to
keep the noise down behind me.
I thought there was going to
be some sort of movie starting
that necessitated such silent
attention until I realized
that some of the train cars
are specifically designated
for the lazy kind of traveler
that I felt like being. They
are quiet cars and I will
snore my praises of them for
years to come.
Budapest —
A city full of history,
incredible architecture, and
beautiful women. As you walk
around the city you get a
definite stench of the former
socialist society coupled with
an obvious existence of
capitalist growth. The city
sits on the banks of the
Danube. The Pest side is where
you would find a much more
built-up city center with
malls and shopping areas, not
to mention the late night
venues. You can imagine my
desire to visit the other side
of the river.
The other side of the river is
the Buda part of the city (are
you picking up on the basis of
the name yet?). A little
quieter and lush, Buda
contains some beautiful homes
and sites. The Gelhert Hill,
marked by a statue that can be
reached by hiking paths,
offers an incredible view of
the city. I was lucky enough
to meet a lovely local named
Janka and I was invited to a
dinner party. Hungarians are
often seen as slightly less
personable than some western
European counterparts. This
can be chalked up to a very
dry sense of humour. I can
attest, however, that this is
not the case at all. After a
great, home-cooked meal and a
few cocktails in a quaint
apartment in the hills filled
with great people, including
Zigga (who I knew for a few
days and offered me a lift to
the train station), and of
course the beautiful Janka; I
would say that kindness and
generosity are staples in the
social diet of Hungarians.
They also have an uncanny
ability to have a good time.
Again, some relaxation is in
order after seeing so many
sites.
By David Lazzarion, Canada,
Correspondent, Jetsetters
Magazine at
www.jetsettersmagazine.com
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