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Thinking
Of Traveling To Alaska?
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by: Norm
Goldman
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Today Norm Goldman, Editor
of www.Sketchandtravel.com
and www.Bookpleasures.com
is pleased to have as a guest,
writer and travel book author,
Nancy Thalia Reynolds.
Nancy’s principal area of
expertise is Alaska, British
Colombia, and the Yukon
Territory. Nancy is co-author
of Going Places Family
Getaways In The Pacific
Northwest.
Good Day Nancy and thank you
for accepting our invitation
to be interviewed.
Norm:
Please tell our readers
something about yourself, your
educational background, and
the books you have written and
are now in the process of
writing.
Nancy:
I’m a 5th generation Pacific
Northwesterner. My father had
a profound wanderlust and an
enthusiasm for discovering new
people and places that rubbed
off on me. A university
professor, he held jobs around
the U.S. and Brazil. I lived
in California, Brazil,
Washington and Oregon before
moving to New York at age 17
to attend Sarah Lawrence
College. My upbringing allowed
me to feel at home in widely
different milieus and
engendered deep curiosity
about other lands, and I’ve
had a passion for travel since
childhood. Although I did
cherish dreams of writing a
great novel as a kid, the
passion for travel writing
came later.
After college, I moved to
Canada and worked a few years
before attending York
University Law School. On
graduating, I worked at public
interest law firms first in
Toronto, then Vancouver where
I wrote and edited legal
self-help materials before
moving to the US to marry. At
that time I made a strategic
decision to abandon law and
become a full-time writer.
My first venture into
authoring a book was when I
wrote Adopting Your Child was
published in 1993.
This opened the doors for me.
I contributed the British
Columbia section to the fourth
edition of Going Places:
Family Getaways in the Pacific
Northwest, published in 2000,
and went on to write Going
Places: Alaska and the Yukon
for Families, which comes out
in April 2005. Both titles are
available from Sasquatch
Books.
I just completed a new Alaska
travel book, Activity Guide to
the Inside Passage: Whether
You Have Four Hours or Four
Days. Sasquatch will publish
it in January 2006.
Norm:
Where is the Yukon Territory
and Alaska, and how easy is it
to travel from the United
States, Canada or Europe to
these areas?
Nancy:
Yukon Territory is bordered to
the south by British Columbia,
to the east by the Northwest
Territories, to the north by
the Beaufort Sea in the Arctic
and to the west by the state
of Alaska. Most of Alaska sits
to the left of Canada, but the
gorgeous Alaska panhandle, a
narrow coastal strip with
widely separated communities,
many on islands, runs several
hundred miles south, bordered
to the east by BC. At the top
of the panhandle, the towns of
Skagway and Haines offer road
access to the rest of Alaska,
the US and Canada.
The easiest way to get here is
by air. International air
carriers serve Vancouver and
Anchorage. National carriers
serve these destinations and
Whitehorse (the Yukon
capital). Alaska Airlines
serves major Alaska cities and
many smaller communities. Air
Canada and its partners serve
BC and the Yukon. Throughout
the region, huge distances
make plane travel essential.
Smaller airline, charter and
air taxi service is widely
available across the north.
From Seattle, a non-stop
flight to Anchorage takes 3.25
hours. From Vancouver, a
non-stop flight to Whitehorse
takes 2.5 hours.
Highways run north through BC
and Alberta, connecting to the
Alaska Highway, which starts
officially at Dawson Creek,
BC, and runs through the Yukon
into central Alaska. It is 817
miles from Seattle to mile
zero of the Alaska Highway;
and 548 miles from Calgary.
The Alaska Highway itself is
1,390 miles long, ending at
Delta Junction, Alaska.
Another 98 miles brings you to
Fairbanks. The road is paved
all the way, and services are
rarely more than 100 miles
apart--usually closer.
Once in the Yukon, motorists
can drive to Dawson City,
ground zero of the Klondike
Gold Rush, and over the Top of
the World highway to Alaska.
The Dempster Highway leads
north from Dawson to Inuvik,
through the Northwest
Territories. It’s not paved
but in good summer weather can
be driven comfortably.
In Alaska one can drive from
Anchorage to Denali National
Park, home of the
continent’s highest
mountain, spectacular Mount
McKinley, in eight hours on
good paved highway. Four more
hours brings you to Fairbanks,
with road access to the Yukon
and points north. Many
northern highways offer good
driving conditions,
breathtaking mountain and
ocean views, and very little
traffic apart from the
occasional moose or bear
ambling across the roadway.
Norm:
Would you consider Alaska and
the Yukon Territory a good
choice for a romantic getaway
or wedding and honeymoon
destination? Why?
Nancy:
The answer is a resounding
yes--for the right couple.
This region contains the
world’s largest protected
wilderness, spanning Alaska,
British Columbia, and Yukon
Territory and designated a UN
World Heritage site.
The scenery is magnificent,
access to wildlife unequalled,
and despite its
ever-increasing popularity as
a tourist destination, has
many all-but-undiscovered
destinations to explore.
Native cultures, largely
eclipsed down south, are major
players in the north, and are
glad to share their world with
visitors. However, if your
idea of a holiday or honeymoon
is lying on a tropical beach,
you’ll want to look
elsewhere.
Let’s look at weddings
first.
Getting your wedding party up
north can be a challenge,
although it could also be a
magnificent experience. Alaska
has several five-star hotels
in the Anchorage area;
otherwise most choices can be
characterized as comfortable
but rustic. A large wedding
party and guests--more than
100 people--could be
accommodated in Anchorage,
Juneau, Fairbanks or
Whitehorse. The Captain Cook,
in Anchorage, or the nearby
Alyeska Resort in Girdwood,
would be top choices. Smaller
wedding parties can be
comfortably accommodated in
many places.
For honeymoons and romantic
getaways, options are endless.
Cities offer the usual urban
amenities; but to experience
the unique attractions of
Alaska and the Yukon, try:
· An out-of-the-way spot like
the Boardwalk Lodge on Prince
of Wales Island, a great
choice for fishing
enthusiasts. In recent years,
visitors have clamoured for a
look at the world’s largest
brown bears (AKA grizzlies).
· An August trip to Katmai
National Park & Preserve,
with a stay at the Brooks
Lodge, a short walk from brown
bears fishing for salmon, is
unforgettable.
· The lovely Windsong Lodge
near Seward on the Kenai
Peninsula makes a great home
base from which to explore
Kenai Fjords National Park
where you can get up close to
beautiful Exit Glacier, hike
some of Alaska’s loveliest
trails, and kayak among
glacier-carved fjords.
· The Yukon, especially
Dawson City and Whitehorse,
come to life in summer. A trip
at the start or end of the
season is recommended. Even in
August, fall colours are
rampant and yet temperatures
can rise above 25C/77F. Take a
day trip up the Yukon River to
Eagle, Alaska.
Norm:
You mentioned to me that you
have traveled to the north by
just about every means
available: plane, cruise ship,
sailboat, motoring. Which one
did you prefer and why?
Nancy:
I enjoyed all of them. Driving
is great because it allows the
most access to the region. If
you have the luxury of time,
the options are infinite! For
visiting southeast Alaska,
travel by water is my top
choice. The variety of options
grows every year. At the high
end are small luxury cruise
lines, or you can book a
sailboat, complete with
captain and crew, for your
party and go exploring. For
most visitors, especially
those unfamiliar with the
region, large cruise-ship
travel is often the most
comfortable choice. To
experience Alaska as Alaskans
do, I suggest taking the
Alaska ferry up the Inside
Passage; it combines the most
access at the least cost in
time and money. And to simply
get north fast and start
exploring, nothing beats
flying.
Norm:
When is the best time to visit
Alaska and the Yukon Territory
from the point of view of
weather, costs, crowds, and
the availability of flights
from the USA, Canada and
Europe?
Nancy:
The most affordable time to
visit is the so-called
“shoulder season.” Up
north, that’s May and
September. Attractions are
open and flights are
available, but crowds are
thinner. Mosquitoes, which can
be a trial throughout the
north, are scarce in those
months, yet days are still
long. Thrifty-minded visitors
can find cheaper flights and
often bargain for lower hotel
rates at this time. Cruise
fares tend to be lower as
well. For a winter trip, avoid
Christmas holidays and school
midwinter breaks to obtain the
best rates.
Norm:
How safe is it to travel to
Alaska and the Yukon
Territory?
Nancy:
Quite safe. The crime rate is
low and human-generated risks
are few. However, if you plan
to get into the wilderness,
you’ll need to be prepared,
inform yourself and take
sensible precautions. Read up
on the terrain and the
wildlife. Learn how to handle
bear and moose encounters. If
you’re visiting in January,
you’ll need cold-weather
clothing suitable for average
low temperatures of -22C/-9F.
It’s not unheard of for
temperatures to reach
-40C/-40F. On the other hand,
it comes as a nice surprise to
many summer visitors to the
Alaska and Yukon interior that
summer temperatures can soar
to 27C/81F or even higher.
Norm:
Could you give our readers an
idea of the costs involved if
travel originates from the USA
or Canada?
Nancy:
· Given the wide variety of
travel options, it’s hard to
be precise. If you can be
flexible, you can often find a
return flight from Seattle to
Anchorage for around $250.
Although it’s closer, flying
to Juneau will cost more, from
$50-100 usually--US dollars of
course. From Vancouver to
Whitehorse, return; expect to
pay at least $200, Canadian.
· Drivers will find gasoline
prices moderate in Canada and
low to moderate in Alaska,
thanks to the oil pipeline.
· Restaurant prices run
higher everywhere; budget
about 20% more than you’d
need in urban Canada or the
U.S. Motel and hotel costs are
similar to those down south;
don’t be afraid to bargain
during the off or shoulder
season.
· Cruise fares are complex
and bewildering, but if
you’re prepared to do the
homework and cost comparison
required, you can obtain
remarkable deals. It’s
possible to snag an inside
stateroom for a seven-day
cruise between Vancouver and
Seward, Alaska, for under $700
per person. This includes
stateroom and meals, but no
alcohol or shore excursions.
Still, it’s a deal that’s
hard to beat. For a romantic
getaway, consider traveling in
the early shoulder season and
apply the savings to upgrading
to an outside stateroom with a
veranda.
Norm:
If you had to choose 6
unequalled venues in Alaska
and the Yukon Territory for a
romantic getaway, honeymoon or
wedding destination, which
would you choose and why?
I noticed that you had
mentioned to me there is some
great hot springs just south
of the Yukon border on the
Alaska Highway and in central
Alaska. Perhaps, you would
like to elaborate as how this
venue qualifies as a unique
romantic destination?
Nancy:
Only 6? That’s not easy;
I’ll have to commune with my
inner travel agent! OK, here
goes.
For more information, my book
Going Places: Alaska and the
Yukon for Families explores
each of these destinations in
greater detail. Government Web
sites are another good
resource.
· Glacier Bay National Park
& Preserve, Alaska
It’s accessible (Alaska
Airlines offers service to
Gustavus, just outside the
park) and offers a taste of
just about everything the
north has to offer. Although
Gustavus has excellent
B&Bs, for honeymooners I
recommend staying at Glacier
Bay Lodge, the only
accommodation inside the park,
which offers rustic comfort
(get a room with a view of
Bartlett Cove), fine dining,
and activities like kayaking,
fishing, biking, guided boat
tours of Glacier Bay, and free
guided hikes with park
rangers. Go flightseeing high
above the bay to get a look at
the enormous icefields that
generate the glaciers. If time
allows, extend your trip to
Juneau (a gorgeous, 3-hour
ferry trip south) to visit
Mendenhall Glacier, tour
superb museums, shop for
Tlingit art and take a boat
tour to Tracy Arm-Ford’s
Terror Wilderness. The lodge
is open and tours are offered
between late May and early
September.
· Haines Junction, YT
Come again? You may never have
heard of it, but this tiny
town perched at the edge of
Canada’s spectacular Kluane
National Park has a lot to
offer--location, location,
location, as they say in real
estate. It’s
highway-accessible from
Skagway (4.5 hours), Haines (3
hours) and Whitehorse (1.5
hours). The national park’s
main visitor centre is in town
along with a superb small
European-style inn--the
Raven--with 12 spacious rooms
and one of Canada’s top
restaurants. Also in town are
several decent motels and an
excellent bakery and cafe.
From here, you can access
excellent hiking trails for
all levels of fitness, and
explore the largest protected
wilderness in the world. You
will need a vehicle. If you
don’t have one with you,
rentals are available in
Haines, Skagway and
Whitehorse. Or book a stay
with one of the area’s
full-service resorts and let
them take you exploring. NOTE
TO CANADIANS: For reasons no
one seems able to explain,
Canadians are not permitted to
bring a vehicle into Canada,
which they have rented in the
US. Luckily, Whitehorse has
many rental outlets.
· Homer, Alaska
On the southwest of the Kenai
Peninsula, Homer is the better
part of a day’s drive from
Anchorage. It’s tiny (about
4,000 residents) but with
city-sized amenities--such as
one of Alaska’s best
bookstores, a first-rate
museum, and exceptional arts
and crafts galleries. Homer
Spit, which extends 4.4 miles
into scenic Kachemak Bay, is
studded with cafes and shops.
At the far end, with Homer’s
best view, is Land’s End
Resort, a great destination
for honeymooners. Book a suite
or rent a luxurious condo. The
restaurant is first rate. Soak
in the hot tub at the
water’s edge and watch the
sea otters float by.
· Denali National Park &
Preserve, Alaska
First the bad news: Unless you
are lucky enough to win the
road lottery that allows you
to drive deep into the park in
mid September, you will have
plenty of crowds to contend
with. The good news is that
it’s worth it. Not only is
this closest you can easily
get to Mount McKinley,
wildlife viewing and
spectacular scenery are among
the best in Alaska, and
accommodation choices are
superb and varied. At the park
entrance you can find many
choices at all price ranges,
some with views to die for. To
get away from the crowds and
closer to the natural world of
Denali, consider a stay deep
inside the park at the
beautiful, rustic Kantishna
Roadhouse or Denali
Backcountry Lodge.
· Alyeska Resort, Girdwood,
Alaska
This Japanese-owned hotel
offers sheer, unabashed
luxury. Plus it’s 40 miles
from Anchorage and a day trip
from Portage Glacier and the
Kenai Peninsula. In winter
come for skiing, tubing and
snowboarding; in summer, for
golf, hiking and wildlife. Any
time of year, enjoy the
first-class amenities that
include a superb health club
and pool and a tram up to a
mountaintop restaurant This is
a popular spot for weddings,
well equipped to handle even
lavish affairs. The high
season here is winter; summer
stays can be quite moderately
priced. For a cheaper romantic
getaway,
· Muncho Lake, BC
OK, it’s not in the Yukon,
but so close! This gorgeous
turquoise lake lies in the
northern Rocky Mountains--a
little-known but enchanted
region where caribou and stone
sheep wander the highways,
fishing is excellent, and
crowds are nonexistent. The
Northern Rockies Lodge offers
fine accommodation and
European dining and arrange
fishing and other excursions.
Hiking and fishing are great
here, but the number-one
romantic attraction is nearby
Liard Hot Springs Provincial
Park, 34 miles up the Alaska
Highway. A boardwalk trail
leads from the park’s
parking lot to two large hot
springs pools. TIP: A short
walk from the first, most
popular pool is the second
hotter and deeper pool
that’s more secluded and
less visited, a great
destination on a drizzly day.
Stopping at the springs is a
tradition for just about
everyone who drives the Alaska
Highway. If you don’t want
to bother with a vehicle, the
lodge (it’s owned by bush
pilots) will fly you here from
the US or Canada.
Norm:
You have also mentioned to me
that Asian tourists in recent
years have been flocking north
in winter on aurora-viewing
packages. Could you elaborate
as to what these entail and
what can someone expect to
see?
Nancy:
These are great fun and
growing in popularity every
year. For some years, Chena
Hot Springs Resort, a rustic
but delightful spot a few
hours drive from Fairbanks,
Alaska, has been offering such
packages.
The resort has always been a
favorite getaway for Alaskans
for winter sports like
cross-country skiing and
snowmobiling. The resort has
several indoor hot pools, but
the favourite is its
hot-springs lake outdoors.
Bask in the warm waters,
surrounded by snow and subzero
temperatures, while you gaze
up at the aurora overhead.
Winter packages include rides
on a “snow catch” to view
the aurora. The “aurorarium,”
nicely heated, offers a
comfortable vantage point to
watch the light show. Yukon
and Alaska tour companies now
offer aurora-viewing tour
packages, usually three or
four nights.
Norm:
In recent years cruises to
Alaska have become very
popular. Could you tell our
readers why and do you have
any preferences as to which
cruise to take?
Nancy:
· The answer is simple. Some
of Alaska’s most spectacular
attractions are to be found
along the Inside Passage. Yet,
because they are separated by
water and most are
inaccessible by road, the only
way to reach them is by plane
or boat.
· Another reason: cruise
travel is a remarkably
flexible way to plan a
vacation. No matter your age
or fitness level--honeymoon
couples, large wedding or
family-reunion parties,
toddlers, college students,
and retirees--anyone can enjoy
a cruise. There is onboard
entertainment (usually casino
gambling, art auctions,
Vegas-style shows, and gala
dining), programs for kids,
shore excursions to sample the
principal attractions of major
ports of call and whales, bald
eagles and other wildlife to
view, all from the comfort of
the ship.
· Cruises permit access to a
beautiful but remote and
rugged part of the world in
sheer luxury. Visiting Alaska,
I often encounter visitors who
are making their third or
fourth trip, but whose first
was by cruise ship.
Considering the bargains
available, it’s also one of
the most cost-effective ways
to visit the north.
· For those unfamiliar with
Alaska, I recommend taking a
one-way cruise from Vancouver,
BC, that includes a visit to
lovely Sitka (round trip
cruises rarely stop at Sitka).
Finishing at Skagway,
Whittier, or Seward, visitors
can make their way to
Anchorage for a couple of days
and even tack on a short 2-3
day train trip to Denali
before flying out of Anchorage
back to Vancouver or the point
of origin. TIP: check out
one-way airfares offered by
the cruise lines. They are
often cheaper than anything
you can arrange on your own.
· Amenities among the biggest
cruise lines tend to be
similar. For a romantic
getaway on a major line, I
like Royal Caribbean, Radisson
or Silver Sea. If you can do
without a pool and gambling,
try one of the smaller lines
like Cruise West or, Lindblad
(if your wallet can handle the
strain).
NORM:
How far in advance should a
couple prepare themselves for
their honeymoon, romantic
getaway or wedding in Alaska
and the Yukon Territory?
Nancy:
· We’re trending out of my
area of expertise here, but
let’s take a wedding first.
If you need lodging for 20 or
30 people, you’ll find a
wide range of options, many of
which can be booked with no
more than 6 month to a
year’s notice--the amount of
advance planning most weddings
require. If, however, your
guest list includes 80 or
more, you’ll find fewer
suitable destinations and
those you do find will need to
be booked as soon as possible.
A popular choice for weddings,
such as the Alyeska Resort,
can be booked far in advance.
· For a honeymoon, if you
want the top suite at the
Captain Cook in Anchorage, a
remote but popular resort such
as the Kantishna Roadhouse in
Denali or a first-class suite
on a popular cruise ship, the
sooner you book the better.
Otherwise, six months should
be adequate.
· And for a romantic getaway,
surprisingly you can often
make spur of the moment
plans--especially if you’re
willing to travel in May or
September--and find topnotch
options. TIP: if you’re
looking for a great place to
roost during the summer high
season, try towns along the
Inside Passage. Because most
tourists visit via cruise ship
or ferry and don’t spend the
night, you can often find
excellent accommodation in
Ketchikan (try the WestCoast
Cape Fox Lodge with a
spectacular view of Tongass
Narrows), lovely Sitka (the
Westmark Sitka is a good bet)
or Haines (the historic Hotel
Halsingland has several
antique-studded suites). But
in Juneau, the state capital,
if the legislature runs a
summer session the top
hotels--the Goldbelt and the
Baranof--are likely to be
booked solid.
NORM:
What resources are available
on the Internet pertaining to
weddings and honeymoon
vacations in?
Nancy:
Again, this is not my area of
expertise. The
ALYESKARESORT.COM has a
wedding and reception planning
page on its website. Anchorage
has several wedding planners,
but I’m not aware of any in
Whitehorse. However, a nice
thing about the north is the
informality and ease of
booking and planning a trip.
And maybe it’s the long cold
winters, but even tiny
communities in the Yukon and
Alaska usually have up-to-date
web sites and are more than
happy to help you find what
you’re looking for.
NORM:
Is there anything else you
would want our readers to know
about Alaska and the Yukon
Territory?
Nancy:
Just one more tip--for
adventurous-minded couples
with more taste (and
wanderlust) than money,
consider touring the Inside
Passage via the Alaska ferry.
Ferries run north year round
from Bellingham, in Washington
State, 20 miles south of the
Canadian border, and from
Prince Rupert, BC, up to
Skagway, stopping at Ketchikan
(Bellingham-originating runs
only), Sitka, Juneau and
Haines. Their website (www.dot.state.ak.us)
is handy for trip planning.
Amenities are admittedly
Spartan--but
private--staterooms for two or
four passengers, with bath.
Bring your vehicle and pet
with you. Food is good and
free naturalist programs are
offered in summer. It’s easy
to craft an itinerary allowing
you to get off and stay a
night or two in each
destination before continuing
on. If you want a stateroom
and/or you’re bringing a
vehicle, you’ll need to book
six months in advance. Or you
could do as Alaskans (even
some honeymooners) do--pitch a
tent on deck and enjoy the
wild beauty of Alaska at a
remarkably low cost.
Thanks Nancy
About
the Author: Norm Goldman
is editor of the book
reviewing site, www.bookpleasures.com
and the travel site, www.sketchandtravel.com.
Bookpleasures.com comprises
over 25 international book
reviewers and author
interviewers who come from all
walks of life.
Sketchandtravel.com is a
travel site wherein Norm's
words are melded with his
wife's art work focusing on
romantic and wedding
destinations.
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